Day 1 -
Sunday 25th April.
In flight Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne to Rome via Bangkok.
Day 2 - Monday 26th April.
We arrive at Rome Fiumicino Airport at 06.50 and after clearing Immigration and Customs we travel by coach into city and our hotel the Hotel Dei Mellini for American Breakfast. It’s unlikely our rooms will be available at this time; we’ll therefore cloak our luggage which will be transported to rooms later in morning. Mid morning and we take an ‘Orientation Tour’ of city and surrounds with a local guide, the tour lasting approx three hours. Our hotel is situated relatively close to the Spanish Steps, Via dei Condotti and Via dei Coronari. This area is recognized as an up market shopping precinct. You might like to make a conscious decision to leave your credit card back at the hotel before venturing forth here. Opportunity to leave the coach at this venue and return to our hotel on foot or to stay with coach back to hotel to catch up on lost sleep. Dinner at local restaurant.
Day 3 -
Tuesday 27th April.
This morning we commence a full day excursion of some of the highlights of ‘the eternal city’. Arriving at St Peter’s Square we move into the Vatican Museums which alone house over 9 miles of the most extensive art collection in the world (we’ll only be able to spend a short amount of time at each exhibit!!) before proceeding into the Sistine Chapel adorned as it is with its own amazing art work. From here we continue on to ‘Basilica St Pietro’ recognized as having the largest interior (capable of seating 60,000) of any Christian church in the world. Early to mid afternoon and we make our way just out of the city to the Appian Way. Of all the roads that led to Rome, Via Appia Antica (built in 312 B.C.) was the most famous. The road's initial stretch in Rome is lined with the great monuments and ancient tombs of patrician Roman families and, beneath the surface, miles of tunnels hewn from tufa stone. These tunnels, or ‘Catacombs’, were where the early Christians buried their dead and, during the worst times of persecution, held church services discreetly out of the public eye. Late afternoon and we return to our hotel and dinner at a local restaurant.
Day 4 - Wednesday 28th April.
This morning we depart Rome at a civilized hour and travel 237 kms south to Pompeii, Vesuvius, and if time permits, the lesser known, but perhaps more intact, remains of nearby Herculaneum. Destroyed by Vesuvius in 79 AD, Pompeii and Herculaneum remained perfectly preserved, allowing us to understand the houses, monuments, objects and life of the times. The ruins of these once thriving towns confront one as if the Romans had departed only yesterday.
Mid afternoon and we travel the remaining 32kms to Sorrento and our accommodation for the next two nights the Grand Hotel Royal positioned on the cliff top with spectacular views looking out over the Gulf of Naples and across to Vesuvius. Dinner this evening at our hotel.
Day 5 – Thursday 29th April.
The Amalfi Drive is an improbable 30 km stretch of ‘cliff side’ road running from Sorrento south to the town of Amalfi itself. This morning, following a leisurely breakfast on the terrace of our hotel, we travel this route stopping at Positano a completely pedestrianised town which we approach from the road above. As we step from our coach and look below we are met with a vista of lemon and orange groves, flowers, trees, small allotments, olive groves and gardens which continue right down to the sea. ‘The town of stairways’ is truly enchanting, with thousands of unique and hidden lanes and corners. We will spend an hour or two here during which the coffee connoisseurs among us will be able to enjoy their favorite beverage at one of any number of fabled bougainvillea covered hotel restaurants set into the side of the cliff-face. Later in the morning we continue a further 15kms to Amalfi. The town is small, enabling one to easily while away an hour or two exploring the narrow white alleyways in which there is a range of local product and many pleasant cafes where you can rest with a drink, eating pastries and watching the world go by. A stroll along the sea front is a pleasant diversion. Here we see whole fleets of luxury yachts rubbing shoulders with working fishing vessels laden with nets. Early afternoon and we take the coach up to the town of Ravello perched 1,100 feet directly above Amalfi. Here we spend some time in the grounds of the Villa Rufolo. This is the site where the classical Wagner Music Festival takes place. From here again we have spectacular views south out over the dramatic Lattari Mountains and their wild, contoured coastline and beyond to the town of Salerno. Late afternoon and we return via the ‘top road’ to Sorrento. Dinner at our hotel this evening.
Day 6 – Friday 30th April.
A relaxed departure from our hotel this morning as we return to Rome, however not before, ascending to the rim of the crater of Vesuvius. We are able to travel, almost all the way up the mountain by coach, however the final 500 meters is on foot. Strong shoes are essential, as the track is dusty and strewn with loose rock; however from the path we will be able to observe the crater with its rising fumes, the different lava stones changing colour as you walk uphill and around the crater, the scarred landscape, the result of the 1950’s eruption. Assuming we have good weather there are great views out over of the Bay of Naples and the ruins of Pompeii. We continue on to Rome and some further free time to wander and browse in and around the network of picturesque streets in the vicinity of our hotel. An option may possibly be a walk up Gianicolo Hill at sunset for a spectacular view out over the city. Dinner this evening at a local restaurant.
Day 7 – Saturday 1st May.
This morning we travel 34 kms east of Rome to the Ville d’Este. While the Villa itself is the centre piece of the property it is the surrounding gardens in which we are particularly interested and which have been included in the UNESCO World heritage List. They have been described as the most important example of a Mannerist/Baroque gardens in the world and we will appreciate them all the more in company of a local guide.
Late morning and we return to the city where depending on available time we will visit both the Pantheon and the beautiful Basilica Santa Maggiore. The Pantheon stands as the most complete Roman structure on earth, having survived 20 centuries of plunder, pillage and invasion. It is another of the many ‘must sees’ in Rome while the Basilica Santa Maggiore reigns as an authentic jewel in the crown of Roman churches. Its beautiful treasures are of inestimable value, and represent the Church's role as the cradle of Christian artistic civilization in Rome. Dinner this evening at a local restaurant.
Day 8 – Sunday 2nd May.
Let’s aim for an 8.30am departure from our hotel this morning. This should allow us to comfortably arrive in Sienna in time for lunch and the opportunity to spend most of the afternoon in this fascinating city. Those of our number who travelled with us in 2002 will have good memories of a previous visit here. Siena is a city of steep medieval alleys surrounding the Piazza del Campo. The buildings around the square symbolize the golden age of the city between 1260 and 1348 when wealthy citizens contributed to a major programme of civic building. For a range of historical reasons further development has been repressed and the city has remained frozen in time, crammed with medieval buildings which have only been renovated in recent years. I never tire of returning to this place and to the surrounding countryside. The traditional image of Tuscany is one of gentle hilly slopes planted with olive groves, vineyards and cypress trees bathed in a soft golden light, with walled hill-top towns interspersed throughout the countryside. This is exactly how it is in every respect. Our accommodation for the next two nights is at the Villa le Maschere reputed to be one of the most beautiful late Renaissance country homes in Tuscany pleasantly situated in the hills of the Mugello near the Bilancino Lake, a few kilometers north of Florence. Dinner tonight at our hotel.
Day 9 – Monday 3rd May.
Tuscany is renowned throughout the world for its art, history and beautiful landscape. The biggest problem in planning our time here is deciding ‘what not to see’. Charming small towns and villages, most of which are set on hilltops or escarpments, are scattered throughout the region. While I am keen that we should capture as much of their character as possible, together with that of the unique landscape, we will only have time to really enjoy at some leisure two of these towns, namely Volterra and Pisa. Of all the Tuscan towns and villages Volterra ranks as my favourite. Most of the ancient Etruscan wall is still in place and from its ramparts we have excellent views over the surrounding landscape. The narrow streets and lanes together with various plazas, well preserved and clean, reflect a sense of pride by the inhabitants in the long and colourful history of this town. In the afternoon en-route back to our hotel we will visit Pisa. Unfortunately time will permit a prolonged stay in this yet another of Tuscany’s beguiling sights. Time only to visit the most famous of the town’s icons.“Pisa’s world famous Leaning Tower is just one of the splendid religious buildings that rise from the emerald green lawns of the Campo dei Miracoli , the Field of Miracles. The Leaning Tower is partnered by the Duome, the Baptistery and the Campo Santo cemetery.” All of the buildings of this precinct lean because of their shallow foundations and sandy silt subsoil but none tilts so famously as the ‘Torre Pendente’, the Leaning Tower. Dinner this evening at our hotel.
Day 10 – Tuesday 4th May.
At 374 kms our journey today is the longest in this module. We head initially directly north to Verona arriving there in time for lunch. I consider Verona has a quiet dignified charm about it and is one of my favourite Italian cities. Its ancient centre boasts many magnificent Roman remains, second only to those of Rome. Verona has two main focal points, the very impressive 1st century AD Arenaand the Piazza Erbe with its colourful market, separated by a maze of narrow lanes lined with some of Italy’s most elegant boutiques. Time spend approx three hours here in Verona before turning east-north-east to Lecco on the southern tip of Lake Como skirting the southern shore of Lake Garda enroute. Our accommodation for the next two nights is Hotel Il Griso overlooking Lake Como. Dinner this evening at our hotel.
Day11 – Wednesday 5th May.
This morning we travel by ferry from Lecco along the eastern arm of Lake Como to the charming town of Bellagio. The journey takes approx an hour and a half and although the ferry is slow it is the best way to see this branch of the lake. With its steep, craggy mountainsides plunging down into the water, it's reminiscent of a Norwegian fjord. Bellagio will be familiar to folk who travelled with the group in 2002 but in my opinion it is well worth a second visit. Time today to stroll the colourful promenade with its flowering trees, quaint outdoor cafes (which serve every conceivable blend and style of coffee, not to say anything of the gelato), and to take in the atmosphere of this memorable lakeside town. There are boutiques galore huddled along the narrow steps that march up the hill, while window boxes of red geraniums and fragrant bougainvillea decorate the cobblestone streets. Arcaded buildings with flowing draperies (to shade the shoppers), palm trees and balmy weather give Bellagio a Mediterranean feel. We’ll take lunch here today following on which we will board the ferry again to visit at least one and if possible two of the numerous villas and their surrounding gardens which front onto the lake. Possibilities here are Villa Melzi, Villa del Balbianello or Villa d’Este. Again depending on timing we might squeeze in a visit to the lakeside village of Varenna. Late afternoon and we continue on to the town of Como where we meet up again with our coach for travel back to our hotel.
Day 12 – Thursday 6th May.
Today we follow the shoreline of Lake Como all the way along its eastern foreshore into the Alps, crossing into Switzerland. We are heading for the ‘playground of the rich and famous’ namely the town of Saint Moritz. Assuming we have made acceptable time we should arrive here at approx. 11.30. Time for an early lunch and a quick look around the town before continuing through quite spectacular mountain country along the northern side of the Italian / Swiss border. Those within the group who travelled with us in 2000 will recall the train journey we took on the Bernina Express from Chur to Tirano and our route today runs parallel with parts of that line. By mid afternoon we should be at the medieval thermal town of Bormio. Time for a quick coffee before continuing on through this picture perfect alpine scenery to Bolzano and our .accommodation this evening at Four Points Sheraton Hotel.
Day 13 – Friday 7th May.
The drive through the majestic beauty of the saw-toothed peaks and needles of the Dolomite Mountains on the nor- nor-eastern reaches of alpine Italy is to mountain lovers what the cliff-hanging Amalfi Coast is to fans of cerulean blue sea’. Today our route takes us along this 110 km plus ‘white knuckle’ drive linking Bolzano and the ski resort town of Cortina d’Ampezzo. Viewed from any perspective the drive is a study in road engineering through an awe-inspiring mountainous landscape which is in sharp contrast to the Italy of rolling vineyards and olive groves which we have experienced since our arrival. Although having only travelled this relatively short distance it has taken us the best part of two hours to arrive here in Cortina ‘Ampezzo and we’ll stop for lunch before turning south towards Venice.
Late afternoon and we arrive in Venice and our accommodation for the next two nights the Hilton Molino Stucky Hotel on the island of Giudecca. Dinner this evening at our hotel.
Day 14 – Saturday 8th May.
Venice is one of the few cities in the world that can truly be described as unique. It is arguably the most fascinating city in Europe, and certainly the most romantic Built on 117 islands; it has 150 canals and 400 bridges. Its setting is truly like nothing I have ever previously experienced. While there is a vibrancy emanating from such places as the Grande Canal, the Piazza San Marco and the Ponte di Rialto, there is also an air of cultural sophistication, as one is captivated by a sense of history within the city, and enchanted by the music of various classical ensembles, performing in and around Piazza San Marco. We commence today by taking a guided tour by vaporetto (water-bus), along the ‘Canal-Grande’, the main artery of Venice. This water thoroughfare is 4kms long, from 30 to 70 meters broad and a maximum of 5 meters deep. Along the Grand Canal the richest Venetian families built about a hundred marble palaces. With their front doors looking out onto the water their design, influenced by Byzantine, Gothic and Lombardesque, is often a combination of these styles together with that of a unique Venetian architecture. Later in the morning we travel out into the Lagoon and the island of Burano. A tour of the island’s sights will take about an hour or so following on which I’m suggesting we pick up a quick lunch and return to the city itself. This afternoon is free to explore the maze of lanes, canals, bridges and islands which is Venice. Forget maps!! Forget directions!! Just walk around, nose up. Venice is a big labyrinth: enjoy! Take the smaller streets, which may lead you nowhere, or to a ‘delightful find’, the perfection of a view, colours, atmosphere. Don’t worry too much about getting lost: Venetian people are helpful and you can often see yellow signs pointing to the main attractions, San Marco Square, Rialto, Accademia, Ferrovia, Piazzale Roma, and at any boat stop you can take a ‘vaporetto’ to anywhere you wish. We will meet for dinner this evening at 7.00pm at ‘Da Raffaele Restaurant’, purveyors of excellent Italian cuisine. Venice at night presents a different face again and following dinner there will still be time to wander along some of the streets and lanes in the vicinity of the restaurant before taking the complementary shuttle boat service back to our hotel.
Day 15 – Sunday 9th May.
(At the time of writing these notes I am still exploring the possibility of us taking a ferry from Venice across the top of the Adriatic to Rijeka or Opatija in Croatia; however I am concerned about the reliability of this service.) Failing this arrangement we will travel by private launch back to Santa Lucia on the mainland where we meet up again with our coach for the 260 km journey north-east through the wine growing region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia and back up into the foothills of the Italian Alps, before heading due east and crossing the Slovenian border into the Julian Alps and descending down into Bled, and our accommodation for tonight and tomorrow night the Grand Hotel Toplice. Dinner this evening at a local restaurant.
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Day 16 – Monday 10th May.
This morning we travel across the lake to Bled Island an enchanting little haven of peace and tranquility where-upon sits a picturesque baroque church. We’ll travel by hand propelled gondola, or if the gondolier has embraced modernity, he’ll resort to a battery driven motor. We’ll spend half to three quarters of an hour on the island and by the time we arrive back at our point of departure it will be approx 11.00. Boarding our coach we now travel out to Vintgar Gorge; however before doing so we will arm ourselves with a map of the area. I believe our visit to Vintgar will be one of the most memorable on our programme. The 1.6 km long gorge carves its way through the vertical rocks of the Hom and Bort hills and is graced by the Radovna River with its waterfalls, pools and rapids. A path leads along wooden walkways and over bridges ending with a bridge overlooking the impressive 16m. high Sum waterfall. From this point there is the opportunity to retrace our steps back along the gorge or to continue on with a pleasant walk through rural countryside back to Bled. Dinner this evening at our hotel.
Day 17 – Tuesday 11th May.
This morning we leave Slovenia crossing the border into Austria just thirty kilometers north of Bled. The remaining 220 km drive to Vienna presents us with some of Austria’s most spectacular scenery. Depending how long we elect to spend ‘en route’ to-day, we will arrive in Vienna mid to late afternoon. We are only ‘passing through’ Vienna on this occasion and our stay here is for one night. Our hotel the Hilton Hotel Danube is situated in a quieter area of the city and as the name suggests overlooks the Danube. Dinner this evening at our hotel.
Day 18 – Wednesday 12th May.
This morning we take the coach 239 kms from Vienna to Budapest. We will have a full programme in Budapest, so much so I am suggesting we travel there by the quickest route. Assuming we stay on schedule we should arrive at our hotel between 12.30pm and 1.00pm.
This afternoon we will travel to the Hungarian Open-air museum just outside the small town of Szentendre. “The task of the Museum is to present the vernacular architecture, interior decoration and way of life in rural Hungary from the second half of the 18th century to the First World War through authentic objects in original, transplanted buildings, arranged according to the patterns of settlement. The dwelling houses and outbuildings represent the characteristic house types and their dependencies as they had shaped during the centuries. Gravestones and grave-posts collected in cemeteries, a Calvary, mills and other objects enrich the traditional village-scape, representing rural life from all regions of the country. There are several reconstructed 18th- and 19th-century villages, with thatch-roofed houses,blacksmiths, weaving-shops, working mills and churches…”
Dinner this evening at our hotel…
Day 19 – Thursday 13th May.
Today in the company of a local guide we’ll visit some of the key sights in Budapest. Comprising three separate towns hilly Buda and Obuda on the Danube’s western bank and flat Pest on the eastern bank, this is a city rich in historical sites. This morning we make our way to the Castle District up behind our hotel. The whole area within the ramparts is protected as an ancient monument, the lines of the streets and the foundations and architectural remains of the buildings retain the atmosphere and memories of the medieval and eighteenth and nineteenth-century capital. The view from Fishermen’s Bastion, a position on the turrets looking out over the Danube to the city (Pest) beyond is most impressive.
This afternoon, assuming parliament is not sitting, we’ll visit the Hungarian Parliament Building. En route to the fashionable Andrrasy ‘diplomatic zone’ we’ll visit the State Opera House built to rival any of the great opera houses in Europe, and ‘Andrassy ut 60’ a compelling museum situated in the former headquarters of the Secret Police and documenting the torture which was carried out in Budapest by both the Nazi and Communist regimes. Finally we’ll call into the Central Market Hall. This grand structure originally incorporated an indoor canal by which goods were delivered to the market's traders. Although the canal is long gone, visitors can still marvel at the amazing variety of fresh produce and have their senses charged with a combination of vivid colours and intoxicating smells.
Dinner this evening at a local restaurant, and for those who would like to do so, the opportunity to stroll back to our hotel along the Danube Embankment (Dunakorzo) from where there are great views back across the river and beyond to the Castle District.
Day 20 – Friday 14th May.
Today we travel the 371 kms from Budapest to Krakow. The greater part of our journey today is through Slovakia the Czech Republic’s poorer partner in the days of Czechoslovakia. Approx 80% of this region stands greater than 2500ft above sea level and is full of dramatic geographic features, in which are set high alpine medieval villages. Mid afternoon and we cross the Slovak-Polish border and travel the remaining one hundred kms into Krakow. Our accommodation for the next two nights is the gracious Grand Hotel Krakow situated right in the heart of the ‘old quarter’ of this charming historic city. I want us to be able to soak up as much of the unique atmosphere of the town as possible, so following on dinner this evening I’m suggesting you might like to step outside our hotel and just go for a wander around the streets and lanes in our immediate vicinity. From our hotel it’s just a couple of hundred yards into the medieval Market Square – the largest town square anywhere in Europe - and its surrounding buildings.
Day 21 – Saturday 15th May.
This morning we’ll take an orientation tour of the town and surrounds in the company of a local guide. For many centuries Krakow was the capital of Poland and the country’s largest city. History shows it has been one of the few cities saved from major destruction during many wars which devastated the country, and the city has preserved not only her monuments but also her specific ‘antiquarian ‘atmosphere. This morning we are going to immerse ourselves in something of that history and atmosphere.
This afternoon two options. For those within the group who elect to do so, we will journey 65kms southwest out of the city to the poignant memorial and museum at Auschwitz. There are in excess of nine million five hundred and fifty thousand web references to Auschwitz giving some idea of the depth of feeling associated with this place. Despite the memories of terror and genocide which the name evokes I believe we should take this opportunity to visit this site. There is a sense in which this place is very confronting and for those who may prefer to remain in the city, an opportunity to take in some of the galleries, museums, markets and craft shops a number of which are within easy walking distance of our hotel. Dinner this evening at our hotel.
Day 22 – Sunday 16th May.
Leaving Krakow we travel some twelve kms south east of the city to the village of Wieliczka. The Wieliczka Salt Mine is the worlds oldest salt mine, furthermore it is the only mining site in the world that has operated continuously since the Middle Ages. Today, the mine still produces table salt, as it has been since the 13th century (actually the mine was in operation long before that – the earliest written account of it was dated in 1105 AD).The mine is deep and long, it reaches a depth of 327 meters (1,072 feet) and has over 300 km (186 miles.) of tunnels and shafts. Many of its chambers are decorated and fashioned into chapels, complete with amazing artwork sculpted from the very rock salt that made the mine. We will take a tour through the mine this morning before continuing on to Brno, the capital of the Czech region of Moravia. Our route today is over a distance of 306 kms and takes us through some impressive agricultural country ‘sprinkled’ with numerous attractive villages. Allowing for time spent at Wieliczka we should arrive into Brno at approx 5.30pm. Our accommodation for tonight is the delightful little Hotel Ricc. Dinner this evening at our hotel.
Day 23 – Monday 17th May.
My Europe Route Planner tells me we should be able to get from Brno to Prague in a little over two hours. This time frame would enable us to have a relaxed departure from our hotel prior to continuing through gently undulating country similar to that which we experienced yesterday, calling in at the town of Kutna Hora in time for lunch before proceeding on to Prague. Kutná Hora was a silver mining town in medieval times: once the second Czech city to Prague in terms of population. At both ends of the town there are some beautiful buildings, and the higher points of the town are home to restored older architecture, with Medieval, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings.
Our accommodation in Prague for the next two nights is the Hotel Paris, an Art Noveau gem situated right in the heart of the historical centre. This afternoon I’m suggesting you may like to pick up a city map from the Concierge step outside our hotel and ‘do your own thing’ for the remainder of the day, this way you’ll get a feel for this charming city as you experience it at street level. In the immediate vicinity of our hotel there are five historic streets and squares, eight century old churches, three palaces, eight historic monuments and buildings and two museums. Alternatively you might like to stroll along the river to the pedestrianized Charles Bridge on which there is a large array of buskers, pavement artists, stallholders etc .most of whom are very professional in their presentation. Dinner this evening at our hotel, let’s say 6.30pm providing an opportunity for the ‘late nighters’ among us to view something of this charming city ‘under illumination’.
Day 24 – Tuesday 18th May.
There is so much to see and do in Prague and its immediate surrounds most of the guide books recommend spending at least four days here. Today I have engaged the services of a guide who has been strongly recommended to me as having a very comprehensive understanding of a wide range of facets of this city from a historical perspective right up until the present. I am going to leave it with her to recommend just how we should maximize on the time which is available to us. Dinner again this evening at our hotel.
Day 25 – Wednesday 19th May.
This morning sees us travelling in a south easterly direction the 172 kms to Cesky Krumlov, one of the Czech Republic’s most beautiful destinations. It is a ‘living town’ providing an interesting window on genuine Bohemian village life. Most notable among the impressive amalgam of Medieval, Renaissance, Baroque and Rocco buildings is the splendid castle which towers above the town and surrounding precipitous drops, dramatically contrasting with the lazy river below. We will aim to arrive here just prior to midday. Following on a guided tour of the town the remainder of our time here may be taken up exploring the countless nooks and crannies of this pristine, fairy-tale river town or meandering through twisting and cobbled alleyways, some so narrow one must walk sideways in order to move forward. Our accommodation here is the Hotel Ruze, a 16th century Renaissance building, originally a Jesuit monastery.
Day 26 – Thursday 20th May.
Today quite a long run from Cesky Krumlov to Hall in Tirol; however the countryside through which we will travel is particularly picturesque. Forty kms south of CK we cross over the border into Austria and continue south to Linz before continuing on to Salzburg. This is as good a spot as any to stop for lunch. I’ll be happy to try and establish some sort of consensus as to whether we should spend a little time here, either say in the old town or in and around Mirabellgarten. We have taken the quick route thus far from CK to this point, another option would be to grab a quick bite of lunch here and continue on to H. i T. via any number of scenic routes. Wherever you look on the map in this region the ‘roads are marked in green’. We’ll set the stage for the route we take before we set out this morning.
Hall in Tirol is a small village outside of Innsbruck and the Garten Hotel Maria Theresia is just outside the village itself in a rural setting. It is a small family owned property and those who travelled with us in 2000 will have good memories of our time there. Dinner this evening at our hotel.
Day 27 – Friday 21st May.
Oberammergau is approx an hour’s run east of H. i T. and once again all the roads in this area are ‘marked green’. It will therefore be a pleasant drive there this morning. The performance of the Passion Play commences at 2.30pm today but included within the package is ‘a hot lunch or lavish brunch before the play’. It will therefore be necessary for those within the group attending the presentation to be at their hotel at approx 11.30am. This arrangement allows for a relaxed departure from H .i T. this morning. I’m suggesting those within the group who are not attending the play may still wish to come to Oberammergau ‘for the drive’ following on which we could spend some time at any one of a number of villages or towns in the area between H. i T. and Oberammergau. Dinner and accommodation at Garten Hotel Maria Theresia for those not attending the Passion Play.
Day 28 - Saturday 22nd May.
The Thai flight Munich to Bangkok with connecting flights to Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne departs Munich at 21.50 this evening. Assuming the coach departs H. i T. at say 9.00am, I’m suggesting we would be in Oberammergau at 10.30am at the latest. Leaving here at say 11.00am puts us into Munich at approx mid-day. The coach will drive direct to Munich International Airport where Module 2 concludes. The airport is located 29 kms north east of the city centre and the city square known as Marienplatz . Those leaving us here and returning to Australia on the evening flight might like to cloak their luggage at the airport and travel into the city by train. The airport S-Bahn S8 rail link goes from Munich Airport via Ismaning, Ostbahnhof, Isartor, to Marienplatz, covering the distance in just on 38 minutes. Some of the city's most breathtaking architecture can be found at Marienplatz with buildings as impressive as in any European city. Around the square also a host of churches, each one as impressive as the other. Surrounding all sides of the Square is a wealth of shopping, including German department stores, international retail chains, and local shops selling German handcrafts and Bavarian goods (such as lederhosen and Munich souvenirs).
Module 3 commences at this point with the coach now travelling on to Lindau situated on Lake Konstanz, a distance of just on 200kms It’s a two hour run by the fast route from Munich to Lindau which remains on the same latitude as Munich before turning south immediately north of Lindau. I’m suggesting however we should take a more scenic route and turn south from Munich as soon as practicable and meet up with the ‘Deutsch Alpenstrasse’ the German Alpine Road, which incorporates the border between Germany and Austria in the latter’s north western corner. This is truly ‘chocolate, chocolate box, box’ country and I write these notes I can recall driving through this area on a number of occasions, it is truly breathtaking and well worth the diversion and the fact dinner may have to be a little later this evening to accommodate the timing. Our accommodation this evening is a hotel which will be familiar to those within the group who travelled with us in 2000 the Bayerischer Hof situated on the shore of Lake Konstanz
Day 29 - Sunday 23 May.
This is a beautiful setting here by the lake and we will be reluctant to leave after only one night; however we have a 282 km journey ahead of us today, once again through awe inspiring countryside. Shortly after leaving our hotel we cross back into Austria and continue directly south for a short distance before moving into Switzerland and all that country presents by way of spectacular scenery our route today taking us through picture postcard mountain, lake and meadow country. Following the map it is ‘marked green’ almost all of the way as we pass through towns such as Feldkirch, Glarus, Altdorf at the southern tip of Lake Luzern, Wassen, Meiringen and Interlaken before continuing into the Lauterbrunnen Valley and up into Grindelwald in the lee of the Eiger. Our accommodation tonight and tomorrow night the lovely family owned Schweizerhof Hotel a gem in the Romantik group of hotels. Dinner this evening at our hotel.
Day 30 – Monday 24th May.
“The site of Grindelwald combines a foreground full of country charm – fields planted with fruit trees or maples and dotted with simple traditional dwellings – with a grand rocky barrier stretching from the shoulder of the Wetterhorn to the pyramid of the Eiger. On one hand are the mountains, a playground for mountaineers or skilled skiers; on the other, between the Grosse and Kleine Scheidegg Ridges, with the Faulhorn between, is an immense amphitheatre-like shape of Alpine pastures and woods perfectly suited to cross-country skiing in Winter or hiking in Spring through to late Autumn.” – Michelin Tourist Guide.
We could not come to Grindlewald and not take the cogwheel train up to the Jungfraujoch. The experience is best described in the words of the travel brochure – “Venture aboard an unforgettable train experience to the majestic world of the Jungfraujoch - Towering at 11,333 feet (3,454 meters) you're officially at the top of Europe! Enjoy the incredible world of eternal snow and ice. Visit the Ice Palace, experience the breathtaking panorama view from the Sphinx Observation Terrace overlooking the Aletsch Glacier (Europe's longest glacier) and the snow-capped peaks of the neighboring countries”. Our travel up to the Jungfraujoch, our time there and our decent down again will take the best part of the day. There may be some time left in the late afternoon for a little bit of madness. OK OK if you insist!! This afternoon in response to those within the group who have been asking “What about the whitewater rafting”. I know it’s not everyone’s cup of tea (particularly if you are trying to balance the cup and saucer at the same time as the guy up the back of the boat screams out ‘Paddle’), but for those who may be interested in this ‘craziness’ an opportunity to embark on this ‘genteel’ pastime this afternoon. For the more sane among us who may prefer to relax in the very comfortable surrounds of our hotel, the opportunity to do so or to stay with the coach as it proceeds into Interlaken where the ‘Rafters’ hopefully will arrive. Dinner this evening at our hotel.
Day 31 – Tuesday 25th May.
Although the distance travelled today will only amount to 273 kms all of the roads are single lane and ‘yes’ the greater part of the route ‘is green’!! Will this intoxicating scenery and inspiring landscape never end?? In order to accomplish all we need to embrace today I’m suggesting we leave our hotel no later than 8.30am. This morning we continue along a route the writer has travelled on a number of previous occasions and which never fails to have me marveling at the hand of the creator. This again is Switzerland at its best. A small village at which we will stop mid morning is Saanen. The ’Early Beck’ Boulangerie and Patisserie stock the finest, freshest most scrumptious selection of pastries, breads, savories and cakes the writer has experienced anywhere in Europe. A thirty minute break here is a must. Early afternoon sees us descending down onto the north eastern perimeter of Lake Geneva. We are heading for Yvoire the first of our ‘Most Beautiful Villages in France’ situated on the southern side of the lake. The setting and the village itself is idyllic and we will spend a pleasant couple of hours here; however we will have to be mindful of the clock as we have a further 90 kms to travel to Talloires on Lake Annecy and our accommodation this evening l’Abbaye de Talloires. Dinner this evening at our hotel.
Day 32 – Wednesday 26th May.
For the writer, the day would be complete if we did nothing else other than relax in the grounds of this charming hotel or to engage in any one of the range of activities available for guests. For those of you who are travelling with us in this module I encourage you to check out the hotel website at www.abbaye-talloires.com and to let me have your thoughts. My initial plan was to take the coach ona day trip to Chamonix at the base of Mount Blanc. We can’t actually take the coach very far up the mountain, there are of course a range of ski lifts and gondolas on/in which to travel, but it will involve a 237km round trip, with no guarantee we will actually see much of the mountain, (the area is notorious for being clouded in), and with mountain experiences now included in Italy, Austria, Germany and Switzerland, my thinking is it would be a pleasant alternative to spend a day lakeside or better still on the lake. Let me know what you think when we gather for our pre-tour meetings. Dinner this evening in the hotel restaurant.
Day 33 – Thursday 27th May.
If I were to put a title to the next six days of our programme it would have to include some reference to ‘Country Roads of France’, for I trust you will enjoy as much as I do the delightful French countryside with all of its variety. France is a major agricultural producer and commencing this afternoon we will travel through some of the most impressive rural landscape in the country. This morning however on leaving our hotel we travel along the shoreline of Lake Annecy to the town of that name and head north, skirting around Geneva and moving into the Jura Mountains. These limestone uplands run in a great arc in a north-south direction for some 240 kms separating the Rhine and Rhone rivers. Owing to the high rainfall, this is a verdant landscape supporting extensive forests of beech and oak, firs and spruce (covering approx 40%of the land surface) together with vast upland pastures. Our destination this evening is Beaune the epicenter of one of the world’s great wine regions, in the heart of the administrative region of Burgundy. Dinner this evening at a local restaurant within walking distance of our hotel.
Day 34 – Friday 28th May.
This morning in company of a local guide we will take a walking tour of the town. Beaune’s manicured streets, chic boutiques, and opulent cellars reflect the wealth brought to this town by trade in some of the world’s most expensive wines. Again with so much of historical interest to see in this town the question will be one of priorities. A must however will be the 15th century Hotel-Dieu with its distinctive tiled roof. It began life as a hospital founded in 1443 and is now a museum where we can see the old pharmacy, the kitchens and the vaulted 70mtr high ceiling of the main ward. This afternoon we will take the coach out into the near countryside continuing on into Dijon where in company of a local guide we will take a tour of this delightful town. Dijon has one of the best preserved medieval centers in France. Late afternoon and into the evening ‘a French village experience’.
Day 35 – Saturday 29th May.
A relaxed departure from our hotel this morning will still allow us to take the scenic route to our destination this afternoon the 14th century town of Semur-en-Auxois, (another of the ‘most beautiful villages’). En route however we will stop at Chateauneuf-en-Auxois an attractive hilltop village. Establishment and subsequent development of the castle goes back to the 12th - 15th centuries while the surrounding village contains many fine merchant houses from that period, built in the local yellow-white stone. We can only afford to spend a limited time here but ‘a must see’ is the quite spectacular view from the village overlooking the Auxois plain, various locks of the Burgundy Canal and the Morvan hills far in the distance. Leaving Chateauneuf we travel a short distance to one of the most beautiful abbeys in all of France namely l’Abbaye de Fontenay. Set in a cool wooded valley and largely undamaged it is a perfect example of a cistern abbey. The church with its earthen floor, together with the sculpted cloisters, both set within the abbey grounds, are impressive while the gardens are a joy to behold from the moment you set foot inside the gates. Late morning and it’s only a short drive from l’Abbaye de Fountenay to Semur-en-Auxois. ‘The town and its immediate surrounds form a picturesque scene. A tightly packed mass of small light-coloured houses stands on the top of a rose-tinted granite cliff, overlooking a deep ravine at the bottom of which flows the river Armancon. Above the houses and cascade of gardens, rise the great red-slated towers of the castle keep and the slender spire of the church of Notre-Dame’. Michelen Tourist Guide. This afternoon in the company of a local guide we will take a tour of the town, following on which some free time to stroll the cobbled streets and lanes at our own pace prior to dinner this evening at a local restaurant. Accommodation tonight at Hostellerie d’Aussois.
This morning if possible I’d like us to make an 8.30am start to the day. Although we only have a relatively short run to Troyes I would like to arrive there shortly after mid day, while at the same time calling into the impressive canal town of Auxerre situated on the Yonne River en route. On arrival we will make for the main Tourist Office to obtain some maps of the town before setting off to explore and enjoy the town at our own pace. A place of particular interest could be the marine quarter along by the river to see the many boats moored in the area. The best way to get an overall perspective of the town is by walking onto the main bridge across the river (the Pont Paul Bert) and by looking back tothe Auxerre 'skyline'. The centre of the old town is made up of attractive squares, joined by narrow medieval streets and a myriad of attractive ancient houses. No shortage here of cafes or patisseries where you can sit quietly, rest with a good cup of coffee and soak up the local atmosphere. Late morning and we travel the 74 kms to Troyes and our accommodation for the next two nights the Hotel le Relais St Jean. Assuming we have kept to schedule we should arrive in Troyes by 1.00pm. Time to quickly check into our hotel and meet our local guide. A stroll around the old town centre in Troyes evokes the atmosphere of medieval times, when merchants came from all over Europe to attend the great fairs held here. The city on the banks of the Seine was relatively unharmed during both world wars so its medieval streets are still lined with half- timbered houses. Troyes has an exceptional heritage of stained-glass windows in its nine churches which date from the 13th to the 19th centuries and the city has almost as many museums as churches, all housed in venerable buildings. “Strolling through the maze of narrow streets is a guarantee to discovering secrets between captivating nooks, intimate little squares, hidden courtyards and other unexpected passageways. Here where in days gone by the famous Champagne fairs were held, in the picturesque streets lined with coloured timber houses, ornate with sculptures, the friendliness of the medieval atmosphere lives on. All over these old parts of town, pleasure feeds off the rhythm; in the museums with a surprisingly rich heritage, in the churches which are filled with the most treasured stained glass of Europe, on the shaded terraces of welcoming cafés, or the tables of restaurants that celebrate the Troyes andouillette, (a coarse-grained smoked tripe sausage made with pork, chitterlings, pepper, wine, onions, and seasonings, - I learn something new every day,) an envied centuries-old specialty still the pride of local gourmets”. You could be excused for thinking the above are the ravings of an advertising copywriter having overindulged in the local product; this writer does not think so. Once experienced I believe you will all agree Troyes was a delight awaiting your discovery. Dinner this evening at a local restaurant.
Day 37 – Monday 31st May.
It’s known as the Champagne Trail and from Troyes, the 220km Champagne Route is a network of 220 km of tractor-wide roads that wind southeast through gently rolling hills, around lakes, clear streams and forests of oak, sycamore, maple and wild cherry trees down to the Cote des Bar. “On both sides are the famous champagne vineyards, steepled churches and pretty villages and market towns with tree-lined streets. It's a colourful landscape with beautiful soft light that attracted artists such as Renoir, whose garden studio at his old holiday home in Essoyes is open to the public. In sleepy Les Riceys, houses are squeezed into a maze of tight alleys lined with stone walls. But there's still room for three listed churches, two castles, nine chapels and, for obsessive compulsives, eight old outdoor washrooms.” Of course we can’t hope to travel the full length of this fascinating route, nor to experience all that it has to offer by way of tantalising all of our senses, and rather than dash from one end to the other I will have met with our guide following our time together yesterday afternoon to plan how best we can get a taste for, and experience the best this region has to offer. Dinner this evening at a local restaurant.
Day 38 – Tuesday 1st June.
In planning our route today I have been faced with a very real dilemma. There is again so much to see and experience in this region both historically and scenically. The ‘Western Front’ swept south east from the Somme down through this area. The city of Reims just a short distance north of Troyes remained within the battle zone for four years. There are some particularly beautiful yet deeply moving war cemeteries in this region and before continuing on to Paris we will visit one of these.
“The Oise-Aisne American Cemetery and Memorial in France contains the remains of 6,012 American war dead, most of whom lost their lives while fighting in this vicinity in 1918 during the First World War. Their headstones, aligned in long rows on the 36.5-acre site, rise in a gentle slope from the entrance to the memorial at the far end. The burial area is divided into four plots by wide paths lined by trees and beds of roses; at the intersection are a circular plaza and the flagpole. This site underlines the terrible battles that took place in this region and which were part of the great Franco-American onslaught launched on 18 July 1918.”
Our accommodation this evening the Hotel Concorde St Lazare. Dinner this evening at our hotel.
Day 39 – Wednesday 2nd June.
One day in Paris!! Of course in some respects it sounds ridiculous. Just for the record Google has 143 million references to the question “What to do in Paris” How could one possibly prioritise all there is to see and do in this celebrated city? At the time of writing these notes my inclination is to allow all within the group the freedom to see and do their own thing rather than me dictate the programme for the limited amount of time we have here. Our hotel is centrally situated and within walking distance of many of the cities ‘must see(s)’. May I encourage each of you who are travelling in this module to do your own research, decide on your program and spend the day accordingly. Should you be short on ideas please talk with me. If I were directing the programme based on my personal preferences I’d be suggesting we….
* spend some time just strolling along the banks of the Seine watching the river traffic,
* spend as much time as we can at my favourite museum in Paris, Musee d’Orsay,
* ride to the top platform of the Eifel Tower,
* absorb as much as one possibly can from within the Louvre before becoming ‘Louvre’d out.
* walk from our hotel along the Champs-Elysees up to the Arc de Triomphe
* walk through Ile de la Cite from Notre Dame to theVert-Galant garden.
* tour the Paris Opera House, recognized as among the most beautiful buildings in the world
At our Pre-tour Meeting let me have your thoughts as to whether this ‘day at your leisure’ has some appeal. Dinner this evening at le Chalet des Iles Restaurant, Bois de Boulogne
Day 40 – Thursday 3rd June.
With Thai Flight TG931 departing Charles de Gaulle International Airport at 13.40, we should be able to schedule departure from our hotel at approx 9.30. At the time of preparing these notes I am not sure how many within the group will actually be returning home on this flight, however whether it is by coach or Airport Shuttle, transport to the Airport is included within the overall cost of the programme.
Europe 2000 * Europe 2002 * Canada and Alaska 2004 * South
Island of New Zealand 2005 * Croatia/Slovenia/Scandinavia
2006 * Gardens
of Japan, American National Parks and Regional Britain 2008 * The best of Eastern and Western Europe 2010
