Travelling the Kings’ Road through Scandinavia from St Petersburg to Bergen,
preceded by ten days in Croatia and Slovenia.

Complete Itinerary

Day 1 - Saturday 6th flying into Sunday 7th May. Our flights to Europe today are with Austrian Airlines. Leaving both Sydney and Melbourne within ten minutes of each other travelling one via Singapore the other via Kuala Lumpur, both arrive in Vienna within ten minutes of each other, at 6.10 and 6.20 respectively. With the connection Vienna to Dubrovnik not departing until 13.15 this afternoon (Sunday), I am suggesting we should check our luggage through from Sydney/Melbourne to Dubrovnik. On arrival in Vienna we travel out into the nearby Vienna Woods just 8 km from the city centre for a light breakfast and a ‘freshen up’ at the Hotel Schloss Wilhelminenberg originally the castle home of one, Graf Lascy a member of the Hapsburg aristocracy. We return to the city where we are joined by a number of the group who have arrived in Vienna a day or two previously. If time permits we will take a quick tour of the city before returning to the airport to resume our flight to Dubrovnik. We are due to touch down in Dubrovnik at 14.45. On arrival at our hotel the afternoon is free to settle in and familiarises ourselves with our surroundings. A relatively early dinner this evening before retiring for a much anticipated sleep. Accommodation at the Hotel Argentina.

Day 2 - Monday 8th May. A relaxed start to today with the opportunity for the ‘fitness fiends’ among us to enjoy an early morning swim while others may like to just relax in one of the many pleasant ‘nooks’ within the hotel grounds and soak up the congenial Mediterranean climate.
At 10.00 we will walk the short distance to the entrance of the old town for a guided tour of this ‘historic gem’ polished as it were by its exposure to the pristine waters of the Adriatic which lap its ramparts. Our local guides will spend approximately two hours with us as we take in the highlights of this World Heritage site. After lunch an opportunity to engage in one of three activities (or non-activities if you wish).
i. sit, relax and watch the world go by at one of the many outdoor cafes sited along the ‘Placa – Stradun’ the central thoroughfare,
ii. climb to the top of the city walls for an impressive ‘birds-eye view of the old town’. The city walls are perhaps the most memorable monument of the city complex. They are intact and encircle the town with a circumference of a mile and a half.
iii. at 15.00 come on a short cruise along the coast to the town of Cavat, here we will be entertained by a ‘folklore/dance’ programme before returning by coach to Dubrovnik.
Dinner this evening at the Proto riblji restaurant in the heart of the old town.
At the time of writing these notes the programme for Day 3 is still uncertain as I do not have confirmation the hydrofoil service to Korcula, although scheduled, will in fact be operating. Below is the preferred option; however in the event the service is not running we will travel to Montenegro for the day.

Day 3 – Tuesday 9th May. This morning we travel by hydrofoil to the island of Korcula. En route our vessel makes its way between hundreds of smaller islands and skerries and we see how these sheltered waters are a mecca for ‘yachties’ plying this coast. On arrival at the township of Korcula and following lunch we’ll be met by our local guides who will lead us on a walking tour of the town. Korcula is considered to be the birthplace of Marco Polo. History and tradition are apparent as one walks along the paved streets and squares of this lovely town. Early afternoon and we visit a number of smaller settlements on the island. Korcula is a microcosm of the whole of Croatia and our visit here will give us a broad appreciation of the geography and social structure of the country. Mid afternoon and we travel by coach back along the Peljesac Peninsula to Dubrovnik stopping along the way to visit one of the traditional wine cellars, the region being famous for it’s vineyards. Dinner this evening at our hotel.

Day 3 – Option 2. A little over an hours drive south from Dubrovnik, the Montenegro Littoral ( the northern border region of Montenegro which lies along the Adriatic shoreline) yields up impressive views over the waters of the Bay of Kotor, the longest and deepest fjord in Southern Europe. Our route this morning takes us to the mouth of the Bay and along the curving roadway through the towns of Risan and Perastto to Kotor itself, viewing as we go ‘picture-postcard’ scenery. By all accounts Kotor is similar in many respects to Venice with its decorated palaces, clock tower, meandering lanes and secret piazzas. Our journey continues south through Mt. Lovan National Park and we descend down into the town of Cetinje, the one-time seat of Montenegrin rulers, today a city museum. After sightseeing in Cetinje we return to the coast, perhaps stopping off at the villages of Sveti Stefan or Budva before a ferry trip across the bay provides us with a more direct route back to Dubrovnik. Although still recovering from the Balkan conflict and the subsequent fracture of the Republic of Yugoslavia, the effects of the austerity of a Soviet style administration over the past seventy plus years are still very evident. Having said that however, Montenegro is gradually being ‘re-discovered’ by those seeking out ‘the road less travelled’ and today we will join them. Three nights Dubrovnic

Day 4 – Wednesday 10th May. An unhurried start to today, with time again to enjoy a final hour or two in this pleasant location. Departing our hotel at around 10.00 we travel by coach along the coast road en route to Split, Croatia’s second city after the capital Zagreb. At around mid-day we will turn off onto the Peljasac Peninsula and stop for lunch at Ston a fortified town dating back to the 14th century. Continuing on into the afternoon we‘ll aim to arrive in Split at 16.00. Here we’ll take a guided tour, of Diocletian’s Palace including the Cathedral of St Domnius, both constructed in the 1st century. The Palace covers an area of 38,700 sq mtrs. We’ll walk from the Palace to a local restaurant for dinner after which we’ll continue on to Trogir and our accommodation for the next two nights.
Trogir is 22 km north of Split, set on small island just off the mainland. It is not an ‘international’ destination with the result there are no large hotels in the town. For the next two nights our accommodation will be spread over three small ‘family hotels’ namely Hotel Concordia, Hotel Fontana and Hotel Tragos. Allocation of who goes where will be along ‘scriptural lines’ arrived at by the ‘drawing of lots’. I’ll be looking for a good artist.

Day 5 – Thursday 11th May. Today we travel by private boat (licensed to carry passengers) from Trogir to Brac the largest of the central Dalmatian group of islands. The production of olive oil. and wine, play a part in the island’s economy along with fishing and fruit growing, (sour cherries and almonds). We will see numerous quarries located around the island, Brac building stone being of particularly good quality and exported around the world. A Dalmatian ‘island hopping experience’ would not be complete if it did not include a ‘fish picnic’ and for those hardy souls among us, the opportunity to enjoy a swim in the pristine waters of the Adriatic. We’ll return to Trogir at approx 17.30 in time to relax for an hour or so prior to us all gathering for dinner at the Hotel Concordia. Two nights Trogir

Day 6 – Friday 12th May. Time this morning prior to our departure to take another walk around this delightful little town and capture some photos in the morning light. We’ll board our coach at approx 10.30 and travel north to Sibenik. From the medieval Fort of St Ann above the city we will have a magnificent view over the islands immediately off the coast.
Moving inland from the coast, we travel north, northeast through the towns of Gracac and Gospi en route to Plitvica and the National Park of the same name. Our route today over a distance of 278 km translates into an arrival time at our accommodation at approx 16.30. Time to settle into our hotel and ‘take a nap’ for an hour or so prior to dinner this evening. Accommodation Hotel Jezero

Day 7 – Saturday 13th May. Following on breakfast this morning we take a three hour guided tour through the Park. Situated in a valley between high forested mountains, the 300 sq km park features a series of sixteen lakes and tarns overflowing into each other, in the process forming foaming cascades and thundering waterfalls. Intertwined between the lakes are several kilometers of paths and footbridges, in addition to which electric buses and electric boats traverse the park and the lakes. At the conclusion of our guided tour the remainder of the day at leisure to take in this magnificent natural setting. Opportunity to walk around the foreshores traversing the lakes, to take one of a number of boat trips or follow any of the myriad trails through the forest. Dinner this evening at our hotel. Two nights Plitvica Lakes National Park

Day 8 – Sunday 14th May. Sorry folk, but one early morning departure has crept into this module. In order to accomplish all we need to do today we must be on the road by 8.00. Leaving Plitvica we travel the 85 kms out to the coast and the town of Senj from where we continue for a further 76 kms north to the city of Rijeka, the commercial hub of the region. As we look across the bay we see the resort town of Opatija where we will stop for lunch. Leaving the coast we notice the topography changes quite dramatically from Mediterranean type countryside to that which we are accustomed to seeing in central Europe, ie more lush and made up of small rural holdings. Within less than an hour we have crossed the border into Slovenia and arrived at Postojna, hopefully just prior to 14.00, as we are scheduled to inspect the largest and most spectacular cave system in the whole of Europe. Postojna Caves consist of 20 km of wondrously sculpted galleries, chambers and halls all sensitively illuminated. Visitors are taken into the system on a specially constructed ‘cave train’ the visit taking approx. an hour and a half. While I appreciate travelling into the ‘bowels of the earth’ might not be everyone’s ‘cup of tea’ those who prefer to relax over a cup of that beverage rather than venture underground will be able to do so while the remainder of us try and bring to mind which goes up and which comes down when it comes to stalactites and stalagmites. From Postojna it’s a pleasant 107 km to Bled and our accommodation the Grand Hotel Toplice. Dinner at our hotel.

Day 9 – Monday 15th May. This morning we travel across the lake to Bled Island an enchanting little haven of peace and tranquility where-upon sits a picturesque baroque church. We’ll travel by hand propelled gondola, or if the gondolier has embraced modernity, he’ll resort to a battery driven motor. We’ll spend half to three quarters of an hour on the island and by the time we arrive back at our point of departure it will be approx 11.00. Boarding our coach we now travel out to Vintgar Gorge; however before doing so we will arm ourselves with a map of the area. I believe our visit to Vintgar will be one of the most memorable on our programme. The 1.6 km long gorge carves its way through the vertical rocks of the Hom and Bort hills and is graced by the Radovna River with its waterfalls, pools and rapids. A path leads along wooden walkways and over bridges ending with a bridge overlooking the impressive 16m. high Sum waterfall. From this point there is the opportunity to retrace our steps back along the gorge or to continue on with a pleasant walk through rural countryside back to Bled. When I was here late last year I walked the round trip and it took me approx three and a half hours. Later in the afternoon some of the more adventurous among the group may like to take the gondola to the top of the mountain immediately behind our hotel and board a ‘luge/flivver type apparatus’ which travels down the slope ‘at a rate of knots’. If you perceive base jumping to be ‘pure madness’ wait until you see this. Dinner this evening at the 11th century Bled Castle amid much exaggeration as to speed relative to angle of descent augmented by weight when two persons are aboard the above vehicle.

Day 10 - Tuesday 16th May. Our route today takes us up through the Julian Alps, a unique and unspoiled alpine world. We pass through the village of Kranjska Gora from where we take the highest Slovene mountain pass along the serpentine like road known as Vrsic. We will break our journey here for an hour or so and take in the beauty of this lovely region. From here we descend down through the Trenta Valley travelling alongside the picturesque River Soca to the town of Bovec where we will stop for lunch. For those so inclined, an opportunity for some whitewater rafting while the remainder of us check out the veracity of the travel writer’s commentary viz.. “Bovec, set in the stunning Soca valley where the river water is turquoise and crystal clear is the adventure capital of Slovenia. Nestling between the Triglavsk National Park and the Italian border Bovec stretches along the magnificent Soca valley and offers endless opportunities to those seeking a wide range of holiday activity. Nature lovers will enjoy the most exhilarating scenery including mountain summits, hidden waterfalls and rich wildlife, while those seeking to go up a notch activity-wise will find the Soca river provides excellent rafting and kayaking”. From Bovec we turn north west crossing the border into Italy and the town of Tarvisio from where we make our way back to Bled through the Triglavsk National Park. Dinner at our hotel. Three nights Bled.

Day 11 - Wednesday 17th May. This morning we leave Slovenia crossing the border into Austria just thirty kilometers north of Bled. The remaining 220 km drive to Vienna presents us with some of Austria’s most spectacular scenery. Depending how long we elect to spend ‘en route’ to-day, we will arrive in Vienna mid to late afternoon. We are only ‘passing through’ Vienna on this occasion and our stay here is for one night. Our hotel, le Meridian is located in the city-centre. I consider the only way ‘to get a feel’ for this beautiful city is to ‘walk it’. The remainder of the afternoon is free to soak up as much of this unique place as possible in the limited time at our disposal. Dinner at our hotel. One night Vienna

Day 12 - Thursday 18th May. Today brings to a conclusion Module 1. We commence Module 2 with our 10.15 flight to St Petersburg. In some respects our time in this city will be a ‘bitter sweet experience’. Czar Peter the Great’s bold experiment has held up surprisingly well throughout the years of Soviet mismanagement. Three years ago St Petersburg celebrated its 300th birthday, and President Putin spared no expense to brush the grime off this architectural marvel. Built around a network of canals and rivers which contribute to its unique atmosphere, St Petersburg boasts more than ninety museums, many of them housed in palaces of historical importance. If we are going to experience but a portion of all there is to see and do in this place, we need to maximise on every moment we are here. Assuming there are no delays in our flight we should check into our hotel, the Astoria, mid to late afternoon. St Isaacs Cathedral, one of the worlds largest, is situated in the square immediately opposite our hotel. In the company of a local guide we will visit this impressive architectural icon, hopefully ascending up to the dome from where there are panoramic views over the city. Dinner this evening at a local restaurant.

Day 13 - Friday 19th May, and an early morning visit to The Hermitage, one of the most famous museums in the world. The amount of copy which has been written about this place would itself fill a small library and I encourage you to consult a guidebook or check out the ‘net’ for more information. Our visit here will be over a period of approx two hours following on which we travel by hydrofoil out to the mouth of the Neva River. We are heading for Peterhof, Peter the Great’s Palace, situated on the Gulf of Finland. The palace stands in the centre of 1500 acres of magnificent landscaped grounds featuring canals, fountains and an impressive array of formal gardens. We will spend the afternoon here touring the palace and relaxing in the grounds. We return to St Petersburg and our hotel prior to an early dinner before attending a performance of the ballet at the Mariinsky Theatre.

Day 14 - Saturday 20th May. This morning we travel out to Pavlovsk and nearby Tsarkoe Selo both equally impressive sites containing palaces set within magnificent grounds. Early afternoon and we travel back into the city and a visit to the Church of the Spilled Blood. Endeavoring to convey an impression of this structure in words, the guide book states - “A riot of colour, the overall effect of the church is created by the imaginative juxtaposition of materials. Inside more than 20 types of minerals, including jasper, rhodonite, porphyry and Italian marble are lavished on the mosaics of the icostasis, iron cases, canopy and floor”. Late afternoon and we return to our hotel for a ‘freshen up’ prior to attending a Dinner Theatre ‘folk festival’ at the Nikolaevsky Palace. Three nights St Petersburg.

Day 15 - Sunday 21st May. We depart St Petersburg this morning and travel by coach west around the northern shore of the Gulf of Finland. For the first two hundred kilometers after leaving St Petersburg we are travelling through provincial Russia. It is here in the countryside in particular we see the results of the neglect of infrastructure stemming from Soviet mismanagement over a period of eighty years. Crossing the border into Finland the change is immediate. It is noticeable in the demeanor of the people and the pride they obviously take in their identity, which translates into the way in which they ‘present’ their country. We travel through pastoral Finnish farmland set amidst lakes and forests and early in the afternoon arrive at Porvoo. With a town plan dating back to medieval times, the low small houses, picturesque yards, and narrow streets form a historically unique wooden town milieu. Once one of the busiest ports in the Baltic, the town now is a living museum. The red riverfront warehouses have found new life as lively cafes and boutiques, eons after silt accumulation left the River Porvoo unnavigable by large ships. An hour’s drive further on and we are in Helsinki and our accommodation, The Radisson SAS Plaza Hotel. Dinner at our hotel. One night Helsinki

Day 16 - Monday 22nd May. This morning we take the 8.00 Catamaran service across the Gulf of Finland to Tallinn the UNESCO World Heritage listed capital of Estonia. As a result of its geographical position, Tallinn has long been the bridge between East and West. This fascinating blend of onion-domed Russian churches alongside Flemish-gabled houses reflects the city’s Hanseatic past. Since 1988 and the ‘singing revolution’ which saw the withdrawal of Soviet occupation, there has been a renascence of national spirit coupled with a sense of optimism and civic pride. On arrival we will check into our hotel, the Domina Inn, following on which we will take a guided walking tour of one of the most picturesque and best preserved Medieval towns in Europe. Our local guides on this occasion are ‘two of our own’. Following lunch, some free time to explore the narrow alleys and unique architecture of the old town before dinner this evening at a charming local hotel-restaurant. One night Tallinn

Day 17 - Tuesday 23rd May. An 8.00 breakfast this morning with a view to leaving our hotel by 9.00 in order to catch the 10.00 hydrofoil service back to Helsinki. On arrival we are met at the shipping terminal by our local guide and we take an introductory tour of the Finish capital. Helsinki is of course a ‘harbour city’ and this is a factor in it’s appeal to visitors. I’m suggesting we leave it to our guide to direct our programme for the next three to four hours during which time we’ll take a lunch break perhaps in one of the city’s many attractive parks. We are due to board our Silja Line ferry at around 16.00 for our overnight crossing of the Baltic. Dinner on board ship this evening.

Day 18 - Wednesday 24th May. Our ferry docks at 9.30 and we are met at ‘dockside’ by our local guide and accompanying coach. Sweden’s capital is a city of islands where palaces and peaceful hideaways line the shores and where cobbled streets lead to interesting shops, cafes and a range of cultural attractions. We take a guided tour of the city including a visit to the City Hall, the Vasa Ship Museum and the Royal Palace. Early afternoon and we check into our hotel, the gracious First Hotel Reisen situated right on the harbour-side within walking distance of the ‘old town’. The remainder of the day is free to explore more fully the areas of interest which caught our eye this morning. Dinner this evening at our hotel. One night Stockholm

Day 19 - Thursday 25th May. This morning we travel by ferry to Drottningholm Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, now residence of the Swedish royal family. Located in beautiful grounds on the shores of leafy Lovan, an island 11 km west of the city centre, work on construction of the palace began in 1662. The decoration style reflects the influence of both Baroque and Rococo while the gardens surrounding the building are typically ‘English’. The journey by ferry takes a little under an hour each way and we return to Stockholm early in the afternoon. Stockholm is home to Swedish design and our hotel is centrally situated and within easy walking distance of all the large department stores and specialist design shops. Time during the latter half of the afternoon to browse the shops for those items unique to Sweden. Dinner this evening brings to a conclusion Module 2. At 22.00 we will say our good-bys to those who are leaving us to return home or travel on to other European destinations and take a coach to Stockholm Central to board our overnight train to Storlien in Norway. Although the train is not due to depart until 23.57. we can settle into our cabins at 22.30.

Day 20 - Friday 26th May . On arrival in Storlien we meet up with our coach and travel south west through south-central Norway to Oppdal. This town is an activity centre ‘par excellence’. For those wishing to engage in some white water rafting this is where we put at risk life and limb, (not really). It’s great fun, to say nothing of the adrenalin rush as we navigate the rapids!!. For those who can do without ‘the sensation of going over Niagara Falls in a barrel’ there is the more sedate option of travelling by cable car to the summit of Mt Hoven for a panoramic view over the village while enjoying coffee and cake. There are also many delightful walking tracks within the area one of which leads to Gjevilsvassdalen (don’t ask me to pronounce it). This is the area favoured by Queen Sonja who is a ‘keen walker’. Our accommodation and dinner this evening, Kongsvold Fjeldstue Hotel. One night Oppdal

Day 21 - Saturday 27th May. Today we travel by coach south to Geiranger a distance of 266 kms on one of the most scenic routes in the country. We encounter snow covered mountains and steep sided fjords, green valleys and swiftly flowing rivers. The journey today will be particularly memorable. Our accommodation this evening and tomorrow evening is at The Union Hotel one of the most spectacularly sited hotels in the world, situated high above the town at the head of the fjord. Geiranger has been described as “the ultimate fjord, Norway at its most dramatic, with the finest sightseeing in the wildest nature, compressed into a relatively small area.” Dinner at our hotel.

Day 22 - Sunday 28th May. This morning we will travel northwest to the charming coastal town of Alesund beautifully situated on several islands at the mouth of Storfjorden fjord. Alesund is Norway’s largest fishing town but best known for its unique Art Nouveau architecture. With its charming streets it is a delight to explore on foot. Towers, turrets and medieval-romantic frontages give the town a harmony which extends to the wooden warehouses along the inner harbour. We will spend three or four hours here before travelling south west to Hellesylt from where we will take the ferry back up the Geirangerfjord to Geiranger. Dinner at our hotel. Two nights Geiranger

Day 23 - Monday 29th May. Today we will drive south through the Olden Valley along scenic secondary roads, passing through towns and villages such as Stryn, Loen, and Olden. The landscape is truly impressive with lakes between the grey-green mountains, recipients of cascading waterfalls from gleaming glaciers above. (Hopefully under a deep blue sky.) We continue on through this marvellously scenic western Norwegian countryside via the villages of Innvik, Utvik, Byrkjelo and on into Skei, situated on the shore of Jølstravatnet (Jølster Lake). Our accommodation tonight and tomorrow night, Kviknes Hotel, another

Day 24 - Tuesday 30th May. This morning we travel by coach into the Jostedalsbreen National Park and the Nigardsbreen Glacier reputed to be the most spectacular glacier in Norway. Access to the glacier is either by kayak across the lake in the foreground or by a hiking track around the edge of the lake. On arrival at the glacier we will be equipped with crampons, ice axes and where appropriate harnesses before embarking on a walk on the glacier and into some of the ‘ice formations’ within the glacier itself. Early afternoon and we return to Balestrand where the remainder of the day is free to relax in the grounds of the hotel or to visit the local Stave church within sight of the hotel. Dinner this evening at our hotel. Two nights Balestrand

Day 25 - Wednesday 31st May. Departing Balestrand at 7.55 this morning we travel by ‘Fylkesbaatane’ express boat west along the Sognefjord and out onto the North Sea. We follow the coastline south between skerries and islands arriving at Bergen at 11.40. We transfer to our hotel the First Marin and take a lunchbreak prior to embarking on a sightseeing tour of the town and surrounding area including an ascent on the Floybanen Funicular. Dinner this evening at our hotel

Day 26 - Thursday 1st June. A relaxed departure from our hotel this morning (by way of compensation for tomorrow morning) and we travel out to Lysoen, the summer residence and island estate of the legendary Norwegian violinist Ole Bull and his American wife Sara Thorpe. Ole Bull’s creativity and imagination transformed his 175 acre island property into the unique attraction it is today. The island has romantic paths with white shell sand, ponds, gazebos, exotic trees and bushes all situated within the native pine forest of the island. Early evening and we travel out to Troldhaugen and the home of famed Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg for a guided tour of the house and grounds followed by a private recital. We return to our hotel for dinner. Two nights Bergen

Day 27 - Friday 2nd June. Today we embark on what the Eurail Guide calls the “most scenic coach/ferry/rail trip in Europe”. An early morning departure from our hotel today as we travel initially by coach to Gudvangen, from where we board a ferry and travel the Naeroyfjorden to Flam. Time here for a lunch break before ascending up through the valley on the renowned Flam Scenic Railway to Myrdal from where we continue by rail to Oslo. Our route will take us across the Hardanger plateau which rises to 4000 ft above sea level at the railway siding in the hamlet of Finse. Most of this region is taken up by the Hardangervidda Nasjonalpark a spectacular area of wilderness covered for much of the year by snow and frozen lakes. I believe we will see it at its best in the late Spring. Descending down into the region immediately north of Oslo our train takes us through rich pastoral country where the contrast between blue lakes and golden canola bounded by green pasture under a bright blue sky (assuming the weather is favorable) is an absolute joy to behold. Dinner and accommodation tonight and tomorrow night, The Grand Hotel.

Day 28 - Saturday 3rd June. This morning in the company of a local guide we tour Norway’s capital including the Royal Castle set in pleasant parkland on the edge of the city, Vigeland Sculpture Park featuring 192 sculptures in granite and bronze, and Holmenkollen where the world-famous ski jump is located and from where we have an impressive view of the city and surrounding fjords. We will then visit the Norsk Folkemuseum and the Viking Ship Museum housing three Viking ships excavated from the Olsofjord region. We return to our hotel mid afternoon where the remainder of the day is free. Two nights Oslo

Day 29 - Sunday 4th June. This morning brings our overall programme to a conclusion and we depart Oslo for our return flights to Sydney or Melbourne via Vienna, or other destinations in Europe. 


View other tour itineraries:

Europe 2000 * Europe 2002 * Canada and Alaska 2004 * South Island of New Zealand 2005 * Croatia/Slovenia/Scandinavia 2006 * Gardens of Japan, American National Parks and Regional Britain 2008 * The best of Eastern and Western Europe 2010